The LumberWorksForums

So just when does a log become a cant?
is it after the face cut because it CANT be a log any more?
after all 4 sides are cut?
inquiring minds want to know

I believe you're right about one open face being enough to call it a cant. Also, any piece that you are going to cut across the width with the intent of making more than one board. So say you have a air-dried 8/4+ board and put it on the mill to resaw into two 4/4 boards, you can call the 8/4+ board a cant. You can also cut multiple cants from one log.

so basically anything that you do more cutting on is a cant.
i read that the word cant has something to do with angles? didn't quite get it.

thats truly profound Woodbutcher

in this case profound is "depth of thinking "as found in this group. i take great interest in learning all i can about a subject or process as long as i can good information. as a retired tool and die maker with a small machine shop i have the capability to advance my saw milling experience as long as i can get good information on the subject.
now for the next question.... how tight should the band be? bare in mind that this mill is a hudson oscar 18 without benefit of hydraulics strain gauges or any other whistles and bells. I know this will be hard to articulate without the reference points

One method is to run a flutter test as outlined here:
FLUTTER TEST FOR TURN SCREW AND SPRING TENSIONING MACHINES

The other is to get a tension guage. I did a web search and found several models. Here's an article on one: Iturra Design - Bandsaw-Blade Tension Gauge

I think Robert has a guage?

The Norwood has a cut out for a slide that exposes the coil spring. They simply put a sticker next to it with some hash marks to indicate tension.

thanks treebucker. i've watched the flutter at the top of the blade with the guides on. it seems that you would have to go through the same procedure for each blade as no two blades will be the same length. the guage would be nice i think but i don't know if it will fit in our budget. it seems likt it would pay for it self though.

that makes sense woodbutcher. as the blade heats up it will stretch. it is frustrating because i will get a blade cutting super and the next one will be a dud. they're so many variables to watch and for a novice like myself they are at times overwhelming.hopefully i will learn to understand all the subtle little details that are soooo important.
I'm building a deck on the back of our cabin. I'm using tamarack and putting it down green. worked well on the front porch but i.m using wider boards this time. i let it set for a month or so and then rent a floor sander and sand it off a bit and use an epoxy finish on it. i hope the wider boards don't cup too bad.

I do have a tension gauge, I grab it once in a while and check tension of the band, usually a fresh band,, My tensioner is just a 1/2" allthread bot assembly with a tee handle,, I have developed a feel for it and usually its tight enough when its really difficult to turn,, sorry, not very scientific there,, I would like to have a really heavy spring on my system, but it just wasnt designed that way, and I would have to totally fabricate it,, like most everything else I have done on this machine,, If your bearing assemblies can take it, tighten up the band, till theres very little deflection,, I now have Cooks drive bearing assembly on one side which can take a lotta strain,, but on the idler side i still have a set of pillow blocks, which cant take it,, still lookin for internal bearing assembly on the idler wheel,, WM is willing to sell to me for 300 bucks, no warrenty,, Timber king wont sell,, I'm tryin to find a manufacture of that assembly, but so far no luck.

Robert. good information. i have been timid in tightening my blades and my hands are weak. i'll strive for no deflection and see how it goes.
we know WM and timberking don't make bearings so they got to be out there someplace. its just a matter of finding them